The positive qualities of hemp fibre have been recognised in thousands of years of real-life applications. The texture of pure hemp fabrics is reminiscent of linen, graceful to the eye with its subtle variations in thickness, but it is also versatile and can be blended with other fibres to create many different styles.

The versatility of hemp as a fabric is astonishing: hemp fibres can be woven on their own or with other fibres to produce weaves from the strongest cloth to the lightest, silkiest gauze, in an unlimited range of colours and finishes. Here are its characteristics.

Hemp stalk and its structure

The stem of a mature hemp plant is immediately recognisable due to its layering: the first, outermost layer is the cuticle (or epidermis) and serves to protect the stem cells from evaporation of moisture, temperature changes and provides mechanical reinforcement to the stem. Underneath we find the 'cortex', the part that protects the bundles of free fibres. Deeper still we can find the cilema, pith and cambium, which form the large woody layer that accounts for about 75% of the total mass of the stem and is responsible for transporting the soluble organic compounds created during photosynthesis.

Chemical composition of Cannabis Sativa L.

The distribution of chemical constituents in hemp stems varies greatly between the outer bark and the woody core. Here is its chemical composition:

Cellulose: 60-70%.
Hemicellulose: 15-20%.
Lignin: 2-4%.
Pectin: 2-4%.
Grease and wax: 1-2%.

The chemical composition of hemp woody core is similar to that of hardwood with approximately 40 per cent cellulose, 20 per cent hemicelluloses and 20 per cent lignin [1].‍

Is it worth growing hemp for textiles?

Hemp grows well without the use of chemicals: usually no pesticides or fungicides are used because it has few serious fungal or pest problems, although the degree of immunity to attacking organisms has been greatly exaggerated. Several insects and fungi specialise exclusively in hemp! But despite this, the use of pesticides and fungicides is usually not necessary to obtain a good yield.

No herbicides are generally used because the dense plantations shade out the weeds; no defoliants are needed (as is the case with machine harvested cotton) because the dried foliage is not a problem for harvesting.

Hemp requires less water to thrive than cotton - it is actually drought-resistant and usually grows well without irrigation. Globally, however, 77% of cotton crops are irrigated.

Hemp has a higher fibre yield than any other agricultural crop, thus requiring less land for the same yield. Here, in fact, is the average fibre yield, in kilograms, per acre:

Conventional cotton: 54 - 201 kilograms
Organic cotton: 36 - 46 kilograms
Flax: 146 - 210 kilograms
Virgin wool: 28 kilograms
Hemp: 220 - 366 kilograms

‍Sources and insights:

[1] https://www.britannica.com/plant/hemp

[2] https://www.hempflax.com/en/hempplant/

[3] Manual of cultivation and first processing of fibre hemp, Maracchi Giampiero, Tuscany Region, June 2007, available at the following link

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