In spite of the long list of merits and good aims for which China has become one of the world's largest producers of textile hemp, especially of a very high quality and great ductility, there is also another detail that has helped the growth of the sector within China. This great discovery is that of the cottonisation of hemp fibre. But what is meant by cottonisation and what are the advantages of this process?

Cottonisation is a modern technology, which is used in the field of textile production, in which plants with so-called bast fibres, such as hemp and ramie, are treated to release the plant fibre from the bark using a combination of complex and varied processes, including pressure, alkaline water and enzymes.

The cottonisation process can lead to all sorts of benefits, not only for the plant itself, but also for the production of the final raw material and its use in the creation of many products. For example, cottonised fibres are shorter and softer and can be spun with normal cotton or wool spinning equipment. The advantages of cottonisation are that the fibres can be spun faster and that it is possible to mix hemp with other fibres spun into blends. This is highly important, especially if we take into consideration the main characteristics of hemp fibres, as they are in their natural state: they are very stiff, difficult to work with and can give a rough feel. With the possibility of being able to soften hemp fibres, many avenues are open for the use of this fabric, one of which is the incorporation of textile hemp into different mixes of natural fibres, to create increasingly comfortable and environmentally friendly products.

Hemp cottonisation: a complex process

This technology is now widely used in China, where most hemp fabrics are woven from cottonised fibres. However, we can see that not all the process behind cottonisation is just roses and flowers, but also takes into account more complex and delicate sides. In fact, one of the disadvantages of cottonisation is that shorter fibres produce a weaker yarn than longer ones, which means they can be used to create fewer products and, at the same time, require more production. In spite of these minor limitations, the method offers a more versatile and profitable way of processing hemp fibres that could secure a stronger economic position for both growers and processors.

The great opportunities behind the process of cottonisation of hemp have helped the Chinese economy so much that it has also attracted the eyes of many other countries, which are interested in the production and cultivation of environmentally friendly and more sustainable materials. For example, many farmers in many other countries around the world, including in the West, are interested in the cultivation of hemp and the process of cottonisation. According to some resources and studies by experts in the field, in the future, these new production technologies could become increasingly widespread and used, creating new collaborations between the different sectors involved.

For example, some producers have thought of entering into contracts with farmers for the cultivation of thousands of hectares of land for the textile hemp plant. However, some precautions must be taken into consideration, as its production is not easy and requires some initial steps to be taken into account, which are quite important: for example, obtaining funds to purchase equipment for hulling and spinning. In fact, fibre processing lines are expensive and it is not an easy decision to have to face, that of choosing whether to invest in equipment for hulling or to develop better long fibre processing, as the two options may lead to a different approach to the industry and the whole production system.

The new frontier of eco-friendly textiles

At the moment, China emerges as one of the great forerunners of this trend of cottonisation of textile hemp fibres, for more eco-sustainable production of more eco-friendly garments. In fact, the country of the Rising Sun has already been an active producer and promoter of this method for years, always experimenting with new and ingenious production processes, so that a result of the highest quality and manageability of the fabric can be achieved. Behind this new frontier of eco-sustainable fashion, there are so many studies, in the scientific and mechanical fields, trying to find the best solution from every point of view, from the technical to the practical and economic, to bring more and more progress within the sector, bringing great results. China's success in this new avenue of textile hemp processing is also to be found in the immense success and impact it is also creating within other countries, which are curious and hesitant to approach such techniques.

This phenomenon, which is becoming bigger and bigger and spreading across all countries, is a great milestone to celebrate, as far as the spread of the green revolution and sustainable fashion is concerned, as the big players in the clothing industry are moving more and more in search of actual methods of processing raw materials and resources that are more lenient towards our environment. With a little luck and good dedication, we can really see a major turning point for the fashion world in the future, and the dream of sustainable clothing will become an increasingly common reality.

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