Hemp-Style

The birth and growth of a new fashion sector, linked to the green revolution and the production of a new way of conceiving clothing, as ecologically as possible, has forever changed the world of clothing production. There are, in fact, many companies that are introducing more sustainable fabrics into their production chain and are mobilising to create more and more clothing lines and products that can be in line with an eco-sustainable lifestyle, a commendable gesture that is almost necessary on their part.

For this reason, it is extremely necessary to take a closer look at the companies that claim to use the most environmentally friendly raw materials, in order to be able to incentivise them on their way. In a survey carried out, a great discovery was made: the largest producer of textile hemp is none other than China, which accounts for almost 70% of the world's hemp production and exports [1]. In fact, several clothing brands use Chinese textile hemp for the production of their collections.

A question therefore arises: why is China one of the world's largest producers of hemp textiles and other environmentally sustainable fabrics? What are the secrets behind hemp production in this country? Let us find out together.

Textile hemp in China: the reasons for China's sustainable hegemony

The issue becomes more and more dense, especially if one is aware of some very important historical facts. In fact, the Chinese government had partially banned the production of this fabric and the hemp plant in general only in 1985 (and thus at least 40 years after the rest of the world), bringing it back into vogue and re-approving it on its territory only in 2010. Certainly, this push by the Chinese government has greatly influenced the national economy, receiving more incentives and opportunities to expand in the sector and becoming, as we know today, a leader in the industry. Therefore, we can analyse how production in China has only had ten years to increase and reach its current splendour. But why?

First of all, it must be specified that the great movement of the production of more environmentally sustainable textiles and, in particular, of textile hemp, started from a small region, namely Quinggang County, in the Chinese province of Heilongjiang. In fact, more than half of the world's hemp production takes place in this very fertile territory, also called 'black lands'. In fact, in 2020 alone, hemp was cultivated on over 23,000 hectares, thanks also to the enormous support being given to the hemp growing industry and the development of appropriate new technologies by the Chinese government [2]. Obviously, this great economic and industrial growth in the region has attracted a great deal of attention, both from the scientific sector, i.e. all those scientists who think it would be profitable to develop new, more profitable methods for hemp production, and from industries, both local and foreign, who would like to invest and be part of this new revolutionary wave [3].

First of all, when talking about textile hemp, one must dispel the stereotype that has always been present when talking about production in China, that is, this fantastic country, which is especially known to the world for the presence of highly polluting factories with sub-optimal working conditions, does not only include this but much more. In China, there is an extreme of manufacturers and companies that want to set their philosophies of action according to ethical and eco-friendly dictates, to help build a circular and more ecological economy. Following this dialectic, it is even more important to establish a flourishing and effective hemp production and cultivation. Establishing hemp cultivation closer physically to the very factories where hemp is made and processed is, from an ecological point of view, healthy, as the processing chain is cut and the ecological footprint in production is reduced.

Collaboration with Chinese companies reduces ecological import and makes textile hemp more accessible

Very often, when we talk about the production of environmentally sustainable materials and products, we do not pay particular attention to certain details, namely those of the production and manufacturing chain. In fact, it is often not possible to obtain a quality and environmentally sustainable product in the same way, working in one's own small way, but one has to ask for help from someone more experienced, who can provide help and support. And this is one of the many reasons why so many companies, by mutual agreement, decide to put their trust in the hands of Chinese industries. And consequently, it is important to find a good compromise within the production system, in order to balance both sides.

For this very reason, it is very satisfying that China has chosen to start producing textile hemp locally, so that it can create the necessary supply for the factory to start the manufacturing process. The impact from an ecological point of view is far more important, since it reduces, as mentioned before, the levels of ecological footprint and consumption for the transport of the raw material by far, and thus gives us a product that is not only made from environmentally sustainable materials, but also produced and designed in an extremely environmentally sustainable way.

Another very important reason why there is a very flourishing production, more than in other countries, of textile hemp within Chinese territory is, of course, the economic impact on the process and the final cost. In fact, it is cheaper to produce one's products within Chinese territory than in other countries such as America. These choices will affect not only the number of products that can be marketed, but also the price of the final product. In fact, textile hemp is an extremely valuable and expensive material to handle, thus leading to an initial price range that is already quite high. On the contrary, with this choice, the final price of the product is much more accessible than expected, making it also affordable for many more people, who in terms of clothing cannot afford too high a budget [4].

Finally, another important detail that can make all the difference, especially if you are a big industry in the field of eco-friendly fashion, is quality. In fact, the production of textile hemp that takes place on Chinese soil is of the highest quality, as Chinese scientists have spent a great deal of time working on the right formula to obtain a fabric that is resistant, durable and at the same time not harmful to the skin of consumers.

Although there are other countries, such as the United States of America, where recently there are more hemp production options and many more companies interested, these unfortunately do not have the experience and craftsmanship that China has been able to develop in recent years. Consequently, although there are many options for the supply of textile hemp for companies in recent times, it cannot be denied that the best choice, as far as the quality behind the material is concerned, can only fall on Chinese textile hemp for now. The competition is quite high, and it will still take many years of trial and error, and above all, of study and research, for other countries to catch up with China's level of expertise in the field.

Particular practice of fibre processing: hemp cottonisation

One of the spearheads of hemp textile production in China lies in the use of certain fibre processing practices to make the fabric as functional and soft as possible: cottonisation. Thanks to this fibre-processing technique, which is highly utilised in China, it is much easier to obtain a much more manageable hemp fabric, but at the same time without losing all the good qualities of hemp textile, such as strength, high hygiene and, especially, its eco-friendliness. Although other countries are also becoming more and more aware of this, China remains the undisputed leader of this manufacturing practice and, in general, of environmentally sustainable hemp production in the world.

This phenomenon, which is becoming bigger and bigger and spreading across all countries, is a great milestone to celebrate, as far as the spread of the green revolution and eco-friendly fashion is concerned, as the big players in the clothing industry are moving more and more in search of actual methods of processing raw materials and resources that are more lenient towards our environment. With a little luck and good dedication, we can really see a major turning point for the fashion world in the future, and the dream of sustainable clothing will become an increasingly common reality.