The world of fashion is always evolving and adapting to the habits and changes in society. Fashion dictates the rules on what we wear every day, influencing our perception of ourselves and our comfort. For this reason, it is essential to keep up with its trends. However, fashion has also shown in recent years the other side of its shiny coin, namely the pollution it produces. We talked about this in our article 'Eye does not see, heart does not grieve'.

It is precisely for these reasons that in recent years there has been an increasing interest in slow fashion, a type of fashion that is more and more conscious of its impact on the world around us. It is a very important change, making us more conscious towards our clothes. In particular, a passion has arisen for natural fibres and their effects on clothing: hemp, cotton, linen and many others. Cotton and hemp, however, are public favourites, for numerous reasons. But which of the two is the better natural fibre and what are the reasons?

Cotton and hemp: history of natural fibres

Throughout history, there has always been a struggle between cotton and hemp, as to which of these two fibres of natural origin was the best to use for the production of clothes, while at the same time being environmentally friendly and with the possibility of industrial and mechanised production. There are many areas to be analysed, all with elements for and against the two fibres. Furthermore, it must be specified that both hemp and cotton have a long history behind them, during which both fibres have changed and evolved. For this reason, before analysing the two fibres, one must get to the root of their history, so as to have a complete and clear idea of both plants and, consequently, of both fabrics.

Both fibres, hemp and cotton, have very ancient origins and have been cultivated by humans since the beginnings of great civilisations.

There are, in fact, records of hemp use dating back as far as 10,000 years. This plant was a mainstay of some of the oldest civilisations, including those of Ancient China and Mesopotamia. The stem of the Cannabis Sativa plant was used for the production of paper, textiles, cordage and many other handicrafts, while its flowers were used for the production of medicines.

At the same time, cotton also has very ancient roots: in fact, there are historical sources that date the first uses of cotton to around 7000 B.C., in particular to the Ancient Egyptian and Indus civilisations. According to the findings of historians, it was already assiduously used as the basis of many fabrics for clothing. Centuries later, around 800 AD, thanks to the trade of some Arab merchants, cotton began to be exported, mainly to Western Europe.

The real clash between the two fibres began centuries later, with the discovery of the American continent and its colonisation. Indeed, it was Christopher Columbus himself who brought hemp cultivation to America, which became compulsory for North American settlers by 1600. This fibre was used in a variety of ways, from the production of textiles, ropes and even oil. At the same time and in the same way, cotton plantations also began to expand in America, also supported by cheap labour. In particular, the cultivation of cotton fibre increased dramatically with the creation of a machine, the cotton gin, which made cotton processing much faster and more efficient, supplanting hemp.

On the other hand, hemp became a very important tool during European wars in the 19th century, especially during the empire of Napoleon Bonaparte. In fact, he attempted to conclude treaties with Russia in order to immobilise the British economy. This was not possible, as hemp was an essential element in the relationship between Russia and Great Britain, too essential for the Russian economy to give it up. From there, Napoleon's war continued until his defeat in Russia.

A final and heavy backlash, which defined the struggle between these two fabrics, occurred in the 20th century in the Western world. Specifically, in America, the 'Marijuana Tax Act' was passed, which banned the cultivation and export of cannabis and related natural fibres, including hemp. From then on, its cultivation became increasingly rare, giving way to its counterpart, cotton [1].

Which natural fibre is better: cotton vs hemp

One can see the struggle between hemp and cotton as the best fibre to use, especially for the production of clothes. Both fibres have their own special characteristics that make them unique and can be considered positive or negative depending on the use of the fabric. Let us find out together what these may be.

The magic of cotton and the production of clothes from natural cotton fibre

Cotton, as was mentioned earlier, is a type of fabric that has depopulated in recent centuries. Due to its great versatility and cheap labour from Ameria, it has been widely used in most of the world in numerous ways, including the production of clothes. Here are some characteristics of cotton [2]:

Waste of natural resources

Cotton is a natural fibre, the cultivation of which unfortunately can be considered very harmful to the environment. In fact, cotton requires a huge amount of land, but above all, it consumes a very high amount of water, almost 1400 litres for one kilogram of cotton. At a time in history like the present, when natural resources are increasingly under threat, this detail cannot be overlooked.

Increased pollution

The cultivation of cotton, despite being a natural fibre, can be extremely polluting to our environment. In particular, it requires a great deal of pesticides, which use substances that are very harmful to nature and man. In fact, it is estimated that around 25% of pesticides worldwide are used in the cultivation of cotton alone. Therefore, its fields have a strong impact on the environment, as they impoverish the soil with their sowing.

Comfort first

The greatest advantage of cotton is its softness. Fabrics made of cotton are known, in fact, to be very comfortable and soft, without being irritating or annoying to the skin. One must consider, however, that it is also less durable, as after a few years and washing, it can be easily ruined.

Breathable fabric

Cotton, being a natural fibre, has good breathability as it does not retain strong odours and perspiration. For this reason, garments made of cotton can be worn without getting dirty easily or attracting unpleasant odours, unlike synthetic fibres. Like any natural fibre, they let the air pass through them, wick away moisture and are very resistant to fungi and bacteria.

Beautiful to wear

Cotton is a very easy type of fabric to handle: as soon as it is processed, it takes on colours tending towards white, ivory or cream. Nevertheless, it is very easy to modify and colour to one's liking, which is why it is also easy to handle for the production of clothes. Its processing, however, can also be harmful to our environment, especially with regard to the use of harmful dyes and stains[2].

Hemp: advantages and disadvantages of this wonderful fabric

For so many years, the processing of hemp was seen as very controversial. Indeed, there have been numerous attempts by some governments and textile associations to bring the cultivation of this natural fibre back into vogue. Recently, production has been increasing and several industries are rediscovering the many possibilities of using hemp.  Here are some of the reasons why hemp is beginning to attract more interest:

Simple to cultivate

‍One of the great advantages of hemp lies in its cultivation. In fact, hemp requires a very small amount of land for cultivation, as it is very prone to extensive cultivation due to its thin stalk; therefore, as a yield per hectare it is much more attractive than other natural fibres. Furthermore, it must be considered that hemp needs very little water in order to grow and flourish, unlike other plants and natural fibres. According to studies, it only requires 2.1 litres of water per kilo, a very small amount compared to cotton, which requires 3-4 times more. In fact, for 1 kg of finished fabric, hemp requires 2,000-3,000 litres of water compared to the 9,000 litres required to produce the same amount of cotton [3].

Natural cultivation

The cultivation of hemp is very important and convenient, as it also has a very low natural impact and causes little pollution to our planet. In fact, the cannabis plant, from which hemp is extracted, acts as a natural pesticide against insects, pathogens and mites and, consequently, does not require a specific pesticide treatment. This leads to less use of harmful agents and acids, which can attack the plant and soil. In fact, precisely because of this aspect, the cultivation of hemp does not impoverish the soil, but rather prepares it for the possible future cultivation of other fibres or cereals.

Comfort

It is well known that, on first contact, processed hemp can be a somewhat stiff fabric, but as time passes, it becomes softer and easier to handle. Moreover, the fabric is also very durable, so it can be used and washed for a long time without being ruined. Finally, being a natural fibre, the fibres in the hemp fabric can also be regenerated (and thus cleaned of odours) if they are left in contact with air for at least a couple of hours.

Health First

Hemp is a type of natural fibre that can be very comfortable and healthy, especially in the field of clothing production. Being a simple natural fibre, it allows air to pass through, does not retain sweat and unpleasant odours. In addition, hemp has numerous anti-bacterial properties, also preventing the proliferation of fungi and bacteria. Hemp sativa also has properties that protect our skin from UV rays! That is why it is an excellent fabric for the production of healthy and excellent clothes [5].

Colours and colours

Unlike other natural fabrics, hemp can achieve many different types of colouring in a totally natural way, from white to greenish and many more, all depending on the process of processing or removing the fibres from the fabric itself [4].

Different twins

The two fabrics par excellence, hemp and cotton, have so many elements in common but at the same time also several elements that make them complete opposites. Certainly, it can be said that everyone has their own preferences when it comes to fabrics and the production of clothes, just as each type of production in itself may have a certain preference for one fabric or the other.

If cotton is a better known and easier to handle type of natural fibre, at the same time, hemp is a type of fibre that can be grown in a more environmentally conscious context, ecologically speaking, and possesses numerous qualities, including anti-microbial and anti-bacterial agents. Nevertheless, in recent years it is becoming increasingly recognisable that hemp is a more malleable, healthy and ecologically conscious type of fabric. Especially in times like these, when it is extremely necessary to take care of our environment, hemp represents a viable alternative for the fashion world, which is just waiting to be utilised.

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References and insights:

[1] https://www.royalqueenseeds.it/blog-canapa-e-cotone-qual-e-il-tessuto-migliore-n1087

[2] https://www.canapaindustriale.it/2013/08/21/canapa-vs-cotone-la-resa-dei-conti/

[3] Cherrett, N., Barrett, J., Clemett, A.,Chadwick, M. and Chadwick, M. J. (2005). Ecological Footprintand Water Analysis of Cotton, Hemp and Polyester, Stockholm Environment Institute

[4] https://oasidellacanapa.com/vestiti-in-canapa-tessuto-in-canapa/

[5] https://www.royalqueenseeds.it/blog-canapa-e-cotone-qual-e-il-tessuto-migliore-n1087

Photo:

[F1] Cotton, Rod Long on Unsplash

[F2] Cotton harvest, Karl Wiggers on Unsplash

[F3]  Hemp harvest, Hanffaser on Pixalbay

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